On Friday 31st of January 2025 Irish Nigerian Author Emma Dabiri graced Middlesex with her presence and gave a seminar reflecting on her time at SOAS, where studying African Studies shaped her worldview. She described it as a space that celebrated diverse perspectives and challenged dominant narratives. This foundation sparked her passion for exploring identity, race, and culture—key themes in her writing.

After her time at SOAS she wrote a book called Don’t Touch My Hair and What White People Can Do Next. Which sparked her curiosity and deep infatuation with the world of black hair.

 

Second Year Journalism student Lucia Szlosarek got to ask her a few questions. The first one being Your work challenges conventional beauty standards, particularly around Black hair. How do you see perceptions evolving, and what still needs to change in mainstream media and society?

Perceptions of beauty, especially around Black hair, have evolved with greater visibility and celebration of natural textures in mainstream media, thanks to social media amplifying diverse voices. However, issues remain as natural hair is often accepted only within curated trends. True change requires shifting from tokenistic representation to genuine acceptance, challenging biases in workplaces, schools, and media, and valuing diversity as the norm, not the exception.

 

In What White People Can Do Next, you critique performative allyship. What do you think is the most effective way for individuals to contribute to real systemic change?

As an academic and broadcaster, you engage with both deep scholarship and popular media. 

 

The most effective way for individuals to contribute to real systemic change is by moving beyond performative gestures and engaging in sustained, meaningful action. This starts with self-education—understanding the historical and structural roots of inequality rather than relying on surface-level narratives. It also means leveraging one’s position, however big or small, to challenge injustices within personal, professional, and social spaces. True allyship isn’t about signaling virtue; it’s about being willing to confront discomfort, unlearn ingrained biases, and actively support policies and movements that dismantle oppressive systems. Change happens when awareness leads to accountability and consistent action.

 

Black hair is more than just a style—it’s political. From natural curls to protective braids like box braids, cornrows, and locs, every strand carries a history of resistance, identity, and pride. For generations, Black hair has been policed, stigmatized, and regulated—seen in cases like the U.S. military’s past bans on locs and afros or school dress codes punishing students for wearing their natural hair. Personal expression becomes an act of defiance against Eurocentric beauty standards. Whether it’s the fight against workplace discrimination, highlighted by the CROWN Act in the U.S., or reclaiming cultural heritage through icons like Lupita Nyong’o and Solange in mainstream media, Black hair challenges systems that try to define what’s “professional” or “beautiful.” It’s not just hair; it’s a statement.

 

Black hair is more than just a style—it’s political. From natural curls to protective braids like box braids, cornrows, and locs, every strand carries a history of resistance, identity, and pride. For generations, Black hair has been policed, stigmatized, and regulated—seen in cases like the U.S. military’s previous ban on locs and afros or school dress codes punishing students for wearing their natural hair. Personal expression becomes an act of defiance against Eurocentric beauty standards. Whether it’s the fight against workplace discrimination, highlighted by the CROWN Act in the U.S., or reclaiming cultural heritage through icons like Lupita Nyong’o and Solange in mainstream media, Black hair challenges systems that try to define what’s “professional” or “beautiful.” It’s not just hair; it’s a statement.

 

As well as  talking about the politics of black hair  Dabiri also highlighted the pivotal role that academic research played in shaping her as a writer. Her books are deeply rooted in scholarship, yet she skillfully translates complex ideas into accessible narratives for a broad audience. “Writing isn’t just about storytelling—it’s about connecting ideas with people’s lived experiences,” she explained. This approach has resonated with readers worldwide, positioning her as a powerful voice on issues of race, history, and identity.

 

She ended her session by quoting African American actress Lupita Nyongo. ‘’What is fundamentally beautiful is compassion for yourself and for those around you. That kind of beauty inflames the heart and enchants the soul. I hope that my presence on your screens and in magazines may lead you, young girl’’.  lack hair is not just a style; it’s a statement of identity, resilience, and beauty. Celebrating it in mass media affirms that diversity isn’t a trend—it’s the truth."